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What is SEDBUK?

Have you ever thought what is that ?

SEDBUK - Seasonal Efficiency of Domestic Boilers in the UK, the scheme was developed in conjunction with boiler manufacturers and the government and provides a fair comparison of average boiler efficiency.
The model was developed to be a a more accurate method than laboratory tests alone as the theoretical data from test on 20 boilers in the labs was compared against field trials in 99 homes over a 3 year period.
A clear rating system is now applied to all boilers from A-G, A being the best and most efficient.

Source:http://www.homeheatingguide.co.uk/

GAS SAFE REGISTER EMAIL UPDATES

Gas Safe Register can keep you updated. There is a possibility to sign up for a newsletter. They include regular safety information, tips how to stay safe in your home, cover issues such as dangers of using illegal gas fitters and how to check whether an engineer is registered, as well as home improvements and latest campaigns.

http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/advice/gas_safety_in_the_home/gas_safe_email_updates.aspx

Don't DIY with gas.

1 in 3 people say they would fit a gas appliance themselves to save money. In the right hands, gas is safe, but badly fitted and poorly serviced gas appliances can cause gas leaks, fires, explosions and carbon monoxide poisoning. You may think you know what you’re doing but it’s not like changing a tap; it’s dangerous to DIY with gas and could put your family’s life at risk.

It’s important that you don’t try to fit, fix or move gas appliances such as your boiler or cooker yourself. Only Gas Safe registered engineers have the right skills to do this safely. Gas Safe registered engineers retrain regularly to ensure they are up-to-date with new technology and appliances.

Source: www.gassaferegister.co.uk

REPORT AN ILLEGAL GAS FITTER

Do you suspect that someone is working on gas appliances without being Gas Safe registered?

By law, all engineers undertaking gas work in the United Kingdom, Isle of Man, and Guernsey must be registered with Gas Safe Register. Businesses can only register if their engineers are competent and hold up to date and appropriate qualifications.
You can check if your engineer is registered by using our 'check a gas engineer' service online or by calling us on 0800 408 5500.

Anybody who is carrying out gas work and is not registered with Gas Safe Register may be breaking the law. This includes a registered engineer working out of scope of their qualifications, a previously registered business continuing to work without registration, and gas workers who have never been registered.

Note: For information on what constitutes gas work, please see our Technical Bulletin 014 ‘Gas Work’ if you are a registered engineer, or contact our technical department if you are a customer. The technical department can be contacted by phoning 0800 408 5577 or 01256 650 005 and pressing option 1, or emailing technical@gassaferegister.co.uk.

CLICK HERE TO REPORT ILLEGAL GAS WORK

View a simple flowchart of our reporting an illegal process

Reporting illegal gas work as an engineer

Firstly, make sure the installation is safe. Next, follow the steps below.

Note: It is not acceptable for a Gas Safe registered engineer to knowingly ‘sign off’ gas work that has been carried out by a person who is not registered in order to circumvent legal requirements. Where this has occurred, both the registered and unregistered gas worker may face prosecution.

Reporting illegal gas work as a customer

You can make your report via email, telephone (0800 408 5500), post, and online.

Your initial report is received by our Customer Service Department. Here it is logged and you will be given a unique reference number.

What information do I need to give?

The initial information we need from you is the name and contact details of the person who carried out the gas work. You do not need to provide your name to make a report. Other useful information includes the name of the customer, and the address, type of work, and date the work was conducted.

Note: Reported work must be within six years of age.

What happens next?

If it is suspected, from the information you provide, that the engineer is unregistered, the report is passed on to our National Investigations Team. A free inspection of the suspected gas work will be offered within 10 working days of receiving your report. This visit will last approximately two – three hours, and our Regional Investigations Officer will, with homeowner or landlord permission:

1. Check for any damage on or around the gas appliances.
2. Check there are no gas escapes.
3. Check the chimney/flue for compliance.
4. Check for adequate ventilation.
5. Check for safe operation of the appliance installed by the unregistered person

Our Regional Investigations Officer will also take a supporting statement from you about the gas work that has taken place.

Note: Homeowner permission for access to the site is necessary. Gas Safe Register does not hold any powers of entry.

What if the gas work IS unsafe?

Our Regional Investigations Officer will classify any gas safety faults found according to their severity. They will explain to the homeowner/landlord what this means and, with their permission, make the installation safe. The homeowner/landlord will be given a Warning Advice Notice which explains what is wrong with the work, and how to find a qualified and registered engineer to fix this. Gas Safe Register will even come back and check the work your registered engineer has done free of charge.

Finally, a formal written report will be sent to the homeowner/landlord within 10 working days. If you are a registered engineer reporting Illegal gas work, Gas Safe Register will endeavour to keep you informed, without breaching data protection aspects.

What happens to the illegal fitter?

If we have identified that an unregistered person undertook the gas work, they may have broken the law, such as The Gas Safety Regulations and the Health and Safety at Work Act. As Gas Safe Register does not hold any enforcement powers, we are obliged to provide a report to the relevant enforcement agency, the regional Health and Safety Executive, within 10 working days of the inspection. If appropriate we may also inform other enforcement agencies such as Trading Standards. In certain situations it is possible we may advise you to contact organisations such as Local Authority Environmental Health, Building Control, Citizens Advice Consumer Service, or small claims courts.

For further information as to the outcome of the investigation, you may contact the Health & Safety Executive on 0300 003 1647.

Source: http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/

CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING – WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS?

You can’t see it, taste it or smell it but it can kill quickly and with no warning.

Unsafe gas appliances produce a highly poisonous gas called carbon monoxide (CO). It can cause death as well as serious long term health problems such as brain damage.

Remember the six main symptoms to look out for:

1. headaches
2. dizziness 
3. nausea 
4. breathlessness 
5. collapse 
6. loss of consciousness 

Being aware of the symptoms could save your life.

Carbon monoxide symptoms are similar to flu, food poisoning, viral infections and simply tiredness. That’s why it’s quite common for people to mistake this very dangerous poisoning for something else.

Other signs that could point to carbon monoxide poisoning:

• Your symptoms only occur when you are at home
• Your symptoms disappear or get better when you leave home and come back when you return 
• Others in your household are experiencing symptoms (including your pets) and they appear at a similar time 

What should I do if I experience any symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning?

• Get fresh air immediately. Open doors and windows, turn off gas appliances and leave the house
• See your doctor immediately or go to hospital - let them know that you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning. They can do a blood or breath test to check 
• If you think there is immediate danger, call the Gas Emergency Helpline  0800 111 999
• Get a Gas Safe registered engineer to inspect your gas appliances and flues to see if there is a dangerous problem 

Don’t assume your gas appliances are safe: get a Gas Safe registered gas engineer to do a check. This is the only safe way to prevent yourself and those around you from incurring serious illness or death due to carbon monoxide exposure.

What is carbon monoxide?

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a highly poisonous substance produced by the incomplete burning of gas and Liquid Petroleum Gas (LPG).

This happens when a gas appliance has been incorrectly fitted, badly repaired or poorly maintained. It can also occur if flues, chimneys or vents are blocked.

Oil and solid fuels such as coal, wood, petrol and oil can also produce carbon monoxide.

What is carbon monoxide poisoning?

Carbon monoxide poisoning occurs when you breathe in even small amounts of the gas.
When you breathe in carbon monoxide, it gets into your blood stream and prevents your red blood cells from carrying oxygen. Without oxygen, your body tissue and cells die.
Levels that do not kill can cause serious harm to health when breathed in over a long period of time. Long term effects of carbon monoxide poisoning include Paralysis and brain damage. Such long term effects occur because many people are unaware of unsafe gas appliances and subsequent gas leaks.

How do I avoid a carbon monoxide leak in my home?

Your home may show signs of carbon monoxide. Any one of the following could be a sign that there is carbon monoxide in your home.

• The flame on your cooker should be crisp and blue. Lazy yellow or orange flames mean you need to get your cooker checked
• Dark staining around or on appliances 
• Pilot lights that frequently blow out 
• Increased condensation inside windows 

If you have a faulty appliance in your home, it could lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. Get your gas appliances checked to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.

Why should I get a carbon monoxide alarm?

Because carbon monoxide has no taste, smell or colour. Gas Safe Register strongly recommends you fit an audible carbon monoxide alarm in your home.

While an alarm will alert you to carbon monoxide in your home, it is no substitute for having an annual gas safety check and regular servicing by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

A carbon monoxide alarm looks similar to a smoke alarm and is very easy to fit by following the manufacturer’s instructions. You can purchase a carbon monoxide alarm from £15 at your local DIY store, supermarket or from your energy supplier.

Before purchasing a carbon monoxide alarm, always make sure it is marked to EN 50291. It should also have the British Standards' Kitemark or another European approval organisation's mark on it. Follow the alarm manufacturer’s instructions on siting, testing and replacing the alarm.

You are particularly at risk from carbon monoxide poisoning while sleeping, as you may not be aware of early carbon monoxide symptoms until it’s too late. Do not use the ‘black spot’ detectors that change colour when carbon monoxide is present. These will not make a sound to wake you up if the poisonous gas is present while you are sleeping.

Source: http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/

Radiators.

So, we know about boilers and systems, what options are available to us with radiators? Radiators vary in sizes and style, some are really for decorative purposes only, so careful consideration must be made when choosing radiators.

Flat panel and convector radiators

Steel pressed flat single panel radiators were the first type of radiators to be fitted in modern homes. These sat quite flat against the wall, and gave radiant heat only. They were generally very large radiators and took up a lot of wall space. They come with crimped or round tops. Stelrad and Myson are two leading manufacturers. Myson still provide radiators to imperial sizes!

These evolved into convector radiators, with fins welded on the back. The benefit of convectors is the movement of air under and over the radiator. You get much more even heat spread in the room. You can also size convector radiators smaller than single panel plain radiators, the convector gives out half as much heat again in some cases.

Double panel double convectors are the largest and most powerful radiators you can get in this style. They do give a lot of heat out, but they also take a lot of space up, protruding off the wall up to 5 inches.

 

 

Compact Radiators

There are slight variations to standard radiators, which tend to look a bit more modern. These are called compact radiators. They have grilles on the top, and end panels to hide the convectors inside the radiator. They also tend to sit on the wall flatter, so some people prefer these over any others. They can however collect dust inside which can be difficult to clean.

 

 

 

Towel Rail

These are the modern trend in new bathrooms and toilets nowadays. Some consumers also have them installed in kitchens. They may look nice, but think of them as towel warmers. They do not give much heat out, and care should be taken when choosing them in a new bathroom, You can install electric elements in them that heats them gently in the summer months when the heating is switched off.

 

Designer Radiators

Another modern trend nowadays is to have the latest looking funky steel creation instead of normal traditional radiators. These may look wonderful, but once again, care must be taken when choosing these as a main heat source. They don't give much heat out, compared to a similar sized radiator. As always, functionality must be sacrificed over form. Column radiators as found in schools and churches are making a bit of a comeback aswell, however they are nowhere near as efficienct as their convector type siblings.

 

 

Low Surface Temperature Radiators

Where there are health and safety issues, such as in a care home for the elderly, or a day nursery for young children, there is a special type of radiator available. These radiators are luke warm to touch on the outside, but the inner radiator still gets as hot as a standard radiator. Generally care homes must be kept warmer than your average house, so the radiators are normally on a lot more, and get quite hot. These are a niche product. When you inspect them, they are normally no more than a standard radiator encased in a special metal framework.

 

Convector Air Heaters

These are not very well known, but fit into another niche in the market for those with limited space.

Say for instance you have a large kitchen with cupboards and worktops everywhere, and you have nowhere to put a radiator. These can be installed under a worktop in the kickspace of the unit. They employ a fan to blow air over a mini heat exchanger - heated by central heating pipes. There is no electric element to heat, so they are very efficient to run. They are also very effective, the heat feels more instant as it's blown into the room. In the summer they can also blow cool air.

You are not limited to fitting these convectors under the kickspace, you can also get a model to fit above a door, called a highline heater, and one to fit on the wall lower down, called a lo-line heater. The only real downside is the cost of them.

Source: http://gasboilerforums.com/

Understanding your flue / flue types.

A simple explanation of the various types of flues which will help you make an informed decision on which gas fire,  electric fire or fireplace is right for you and your home.

A Class 1 Flue is easily recognised by a conventional brick chimney with chimney stack on the roof. This relies on the natural ´pull´ to expel the products of combustion out of the chimney pot. The minimum internal diameter for class 1 is 180mm. This allows you to have most types of fires.
Occasionally, a flue liner may have been used to rectify a leak. If this is the case the liner needs to have a minimum internal diameter of 180mm. If the liner has an internal dimension is only 127mm the chimney becomes Class 2.

Class 2 Pre-Fabricated Flue
A Class 2 Pre-Fabricated Flue is a metal flue box that is situated behind the fire connecting to a series of metal flue pipes running up through the house terminating with a pipe and terminal through the roof. The internal diameter of the pipe is 127mm. There are a large number of fires available for this situation. Occasionally, the flue may have been constructed using 180mm pipe. If this is the case, the flue is classed as Class 1.

Class 2 Pre-Cast Flues
Class 2 Pre-Cast Flue are commonly found in more modern homes. Constructed using hollow concrete flue blocks which create a flue up through the property usually terminating with a ridge vent on the roof. In most cases there is usually a flat wall where ther fire goes. This does limit slightly the choice of fires suitable as depth can be an issue.


Source:http://www.bemodern.co.uk/

What type of gas fire can I have?

What are the differences in depths of a fuel bed?

Deep Fuel Beds (also known as Class 1 Chimney Gas Fires)

Deep fuel beds, or full depth fuel beds are found on fires designed for homes with brick built chimneys or prefabricated flues. Brick built chimneys are common in pre-1960 homes. Deep fuel bed gas fires are intended for use with Class 1 chimneys. Please always check with a qualified installer to make sure your chimney is suitable for your chosen product.

Slimline Fuel Beds (also known as Class 2 Chimney Gas Fires)

Slimline fuel beds are found on slimline fires, also referred to as Class 2 chimney fires, flat wall fires, or multi-flue fires. Slimline fuel beds are usually at least 10cm/ 4 inches shallower than the full depth fuel beds. Slimline fuel beds are suitable for most chimney/flue types. Please always check with a qualified installer to make sure your chimney is suitable for your chosen gas fire.

What are the different gas fire styles?

Contemporary Gas Fires

Contemporary gas fires offer a huge range of options to suit modern interiors. As well as inset fires to go into a fireplace, there are hang-on-the-wall and hole-in-the-wall fires which can be installed without a hearth. Trims and fascias are available in a wide range of finishes including chrome, brushed steel, stainless steel and stone. It is also common to have a choice of fuel effect, such as pebbles, logs, charcoal and coal. With such a wide variety of options you are sure to find the ideal modern gas fire for your home.

Traditional Gas Fires

Traditional gas fires are designed to suit period and classically designed interiors. Most traditional inset gas fires fit into a standard size opening (Height 22", Width 16"). The most common finishes are black and brass and many of these fires have magnetic trims, allowing easy maintenance and to change the fire appearnce you can simply change the trims. Some traditional gas fires have one-piece fascia frames, usually made of cast iron, which suit cast iron back panels, or dark marble interiors.

Wall Mounted Gas Fires

Wall mounted gas fires, also known as hang-on-the-wall gas fires, are increasingly popular in modern homes. They are available in a large range of sizes and styles, and can usually be installed without a hearth (subject to manufacturers' guidance) - a huge space saver in smaller rooms. Open fronted wall fires lose heat up the chimney and for this reason they are usually bought as decorative features rather than as a main heat source. Glass fronted wall fires generally give out more heat because the combustion products circulate the fire bed for longer.

Outset Gas Fires

Outset gas fires offer impressive heat outputs, and are suitable for most chimney or flue types. Installation can be performed within a fireplace, standing on a hearth, or wall hung without a surround. Outset fires tend to be traditionally styled and some have wood casings that match your furniture. Common options include high level switches (popular with elderly people) and radiant and convector models.

Glass Fronted Gas Fires

Glass fronted glass fires offer higher efficiency, meaning they are eco-friendly and reduce home fuel bills. They are available in many styles including inset and hole-in-the-wall, often with a choice of fuel bed. The glass panels are easy to remove for annual maintenance. Families with small children often opt for this type of fire, but please note the glass front will get very hot when in use. Care should be taken to prevent children getting too close, for example use of a suitable fire guard.

What type of gas fire can I have if I don't have a chimney?

Most new build homes in UK don't have a conventional chimney, but there are new gas fire models available that can . While this used to limit householders to electric fires, there are now many gas fires available which don't require a chimney.

Balanced Flue Gas Fires

Balanced flue gas fires are glass fronted and available as both inset and outset models. Balanced flue gas fires vent directly through an external wall by means of a horizontal co-axial pipe (one pipe within another). Air is drawn in through the outer pipe, and combustion gases are expelled through the inner pipe. Balanced flue fires do not require an electricity supply.

Powerflue & Fan Flue Gas Fires

Powerflue gas fires are available as both inset and outset models and do not require a glass front. Flue gases are vented through an external wall, drawn out by an electronically driven fan unit. The fan unit is controlled by a sophisticated microprocessor which monitors performance and shuts off the fire in the unlikely event of an operation failure. Powerflue fires require an electricity supply.

Flueless Gas Fires

Flueless gas fires work without any kind of chimney or flue, and don't need to be installed on an external wall. As the fire burns, combustion gases pass through a catalytic converter within the appliance. This converts poisonous carbon monoxide into harmless carbon dioxide and water vapour, which can safely be released back into the room. Flueless gas fires do require a minimum room size and fixed ventilation, please consult your qualified gas fitter before purchase.

Controls

Most gas fires are fitted with manual controls as standard. They often have the option to upgrade to either a slide control, where operation of the gas fire is controlled by a lever at the top of the appliance, which is ideal for older users. Hand held remote controls, which are optional on many gas fires, mean that the fire can be controlled from the comfort of your armchair.

Source: http://www.fireplacesareus.co.uk/

6 common central heating problems with solutions

Common Central Heating Problems & Solutions

1. Human Error – sometimes it might appear that your central heating isn't working simply because of a mistake you or a repairman or someone else in the home might have made with the switches and settings. First of all, check the pilot light is switched on. Next, check that thethermostat is turned up to the required temperature. If both of those are fine, see if the pressure is high enough on your boiler – it might need turning up to ensure water is being heated properly. Finally, make sure the timer settings haven’t been altered, as these can be changed easily simply by following the provided instruction manual. It may sound silly, but checking these before looking into fixing a boiler could save you a lot of time and money in potential repairs or call-out services.
2. Trapped Air in Radiators – if the hot water is working fine but heat simply isn’t being emitted from various radiators in the home (or if they have cold spots in some parts and not others), then you might simply have a case of trapped air, one of the most common forms of central heating radiator problems. This can easily be dealt with, simply by bleeding your radiators. All this involves is the loosening of the valve on the side of the fitting, and letting out any excess air until you catch the overflow of hot water with a damp cloth – a sign that the trapped air has been successfully removed!
3. Sediment Build-Up – if bleeding your radiators proves unsuccessful, then you might have a significant accumulation of sediment and sludge in the fittings that’s preventing hot water from circulating properly. Unfortunately the only real solution for this central heating problem is to hire a plumber to carry out a professional power-flush of your system.
4. Faulty Timer/ Control Panel – sometimes you might find that your radiators are working erratically, and that every now and then your boiler does fire-up successfully – just not always when you need it. If this is the case, then you may have central heating timer problems. This can usually be solved by simply pushing the reset button, but if this doesn't work you should call the helpline of the boiler manufacturer to go through any instructions you might have missed.
5. Leaky Pipe(s) – if you hear pipes banging, clanging or even ticking throughout the night, then it might be that you have a central heating leak in one of the major parts of your system. If you don’t mind peeling up a few floorboards you could check to see if it’s just a case of the pipe-work being installed too close to another surface (hence the cause of the banging), but if you need an immediate repair or proper structural redesign then you me be better off waiting until a professional plumber comes and takes a look for you.
6. Old Boiler – if, after testing for all the above, you still have problems with central heating, then it might simply be that you have an old, tired, outdated boiler that needs replacing. After all, they don’t last forever, and only installing a new boiler provides the streamlined energy-efficiency that is guaranteed to keep you and your family warmer for longer.

Source:http://www.servicemagic.co.uk/