Radiators.

So, we know about boilers and systems, what options are available to us with radiators? Radiators vary in sizes and style, some are really for decorative purposes only, so careful consideration must be made when choosing radiators.

Flat panel and convector radiators

Steel pressed flat single panel radiators were the first type of radiators to be fitted in modern homes. These sat quite flat against the wall, and gave radiant heat only. They were generally very large radiators and took up a lot of wall space. They come with crimped or round tops. Stelrad and Myson are two leading manufacturers. Myson still provide radiators to imperial sizes!

These evolved into convector radiators, with fins welded on the back. The benefit of convectors is the movement of air under and over the radiator. You get much more even heat spread in the room. You can also size convector radiators smaller than single panel plain radiators, the convector gives out half as much heat again in some cases.

Double panel double convectors are the largest and most powerful radiators you can get in this style. They do give a lot of heat out, but they also take a lot of space up, protruding off the wall up to 5 inches.

 

 

Compact Radiators

There are slight variations to standard radiators, which tend to look a bit more modern. These are called compact radiators. They have grilles on the top, and end panels to hide the convectors inside the radiator. They also tend to sit on the wall flatter, so some people prefer these over any others. They can however collect dust inside which can be difficult to clean.

 

 

 

Towel Rail

These are the modern trend in new bathrooms and toilets nowadays. Some consumers also have them installed in kitchens. They may look nice, but think of them as towel warmers. They do not give much heat out, and care should be taken when choosing them in a new bathroom, You can install electric elements in them that heats them gently in the summer months when the heating is switched off.

 

Designer Radiators

Another modern trend nowadays is to have the latest looking funky steel creation instead of normal traditional radiators. These may look wonderful, but once again, care must be taken when choosing these as a main heat source. They don't give much heat out, compared to a similar sized radiator. As always, functionality must be sacrificed over form. Column radiators as found in schools and churches are making a bit of a comeback aswell, however they are nowhere near as efficienct as their convector type siblings.

 

 

Low Surface Temperature Radiators

Where there are health and safety issues, such as in a care home for the elderly, or a day nursery for young children, there is a special type of radiator available. These radiators are luke warm to touch on the outside, but the inner radiator still gets as hot as a standard radiator. Generally care homes must be kept warmer than your average house, so the radiators are normally on a lot more, and get quite hot. These are a niche product. When you inspect them, they are normally no more than a standard radiator encased in a special metal framework.

 

Convector Air Heaters

These are not very well known, but fit into another niche in the market for those with limited space.

Say for instance you have a large kitchen with cupboards and worktops everywhere, and you have nowhere to put a radiator. These can be installed under a worktop in the kickspace of the unit. They employ a fan to blow air over a mini heat exchanger - heated by central heating pipes. There is no electric element to heat, so they are very efficient to run. They are also very effective, the heat feels more instant as it's blown into the room. In the summer they can also blow cool air.

You are not limited to fitting these convectors under the kickspace, you can also get a model to fit above a door, called a highline heater, and one to fit on the wall lower down, called a lo-line heater. The only real downside is the cost of them.

Source: http://gasboilerforums.com/

Understanding your flue / flue types.

A simple explanation of the various types of flues which will help you make an informed decision on which gas fire,  electric fire or fireplace is right for you and your home.

A Class 1 Flue is easily recognised by a conventional brick chimney with chimney stack on the roof. This relies on the natural ´pull´ to expel the products of combustion out of the chimney pot. The minimum internal diameter for class 1 is 180mm. This allows you to have most types of fires.
Occasionally, a flue liner may have been used to rectify a leak. If this is the case the liner needs to have a minimum internal diameter of 180mm. If the liner has an internal dimension is only 127mm the chimney becomes Class 2.

Class 2 Pre-Fabricated Flue
A Class 2 Pre-Fabricated Flue is a metal flue box that is situated behind the fire connecting to a series of metal flue pipes running up through the house terminating with a pipe and terminal through the roof. The internal diameter of the pipe is 127mm. There are a large number of fires available for this situation. Occasionally, the flue may have been constructed using 180mm pipe. If this is the case, the flue is classed as Class 1.

Class 2 Pre-Cast Flues
Class 2 Pre-Cast Flue are commonly found in more modern homes. Constructed using hollow concrete flue blocks which create a flue up through the property usually terminating with a ridge vent on the roof. In most cases there is usually a flat wall where ther fire goes. This does limit slightly the choice of fires suitable as depth can be an issue.


Source:http://www.bemodern.co.uk/

What type of gas fire can I have?

What are the differences in depths of a fuel bed?

Deep Fuel Beds (also known as Class 1 Chimney Gas Fires)

Deep fuel beds, or full depth fuel beds are found on fires designed for homes with brick built chimneys or prefabricated flues. Brick built chimneys are common in pre-1960 homes. Deep fuel bed gas fires are intended for use with Class 1 chimneys. Please always check with a qualified installer to make sure your chimney is suitable for your chosen product.

Slimline Fuel Beds (also known as Class 2 Chimney Gas Fires)

Slimline fuel beds are found on slimline fires, also referred to as Class 2 chimney fires, flat wall fires, or multi-flue fires. Slimline fuel beds are usually at least 10cm/ 4 inches shallower than the full depth fuel beds. Slimline fuel beds are suitable for most chimney/flue types. Please always check with a qualified installer to make sure your chimney is suitable for your chosen gas fire.

What are the different gas fire styles?

Contemporary Gas Fires

Contemporary gas fires offer a huge range of options to suit modern interiors. As well as inset fires to go into a fireplace, there are hang-on-the-wall and hole-in-the-wall fires which can be installed without a hearth. Trims and fascias are available in a wide range of finishes including chrome, brushed steel, stainless steel and stone. It is also common to have a choice of fuel effect, such as pebbles, logs, charcoal and coal. With such a wide variety of options you are sure to find the ideal modern gas fire for your home.

Traditional Gas Fires

Traditional gas fires are designed to suit period and classically designed interiors. Most traditional inset gas fires fit into a standard size opening (Height 22", Width 16"). The most common finishes are black and brass and many of these fires have magnetic trims, allowing easy maintenance and to change the fire appearnce you can simply change the trims. Some traditional gas fires have one-piece fascia frames, usually made of cast iron, which suit cast iron back panels, or dark marble interiors.

Wall Mounted Gas Fires

Wall mounted gas fires, also known as hang-on-the-wall gas fires, are increasingly popular in modern homes. They are available in a large range of sizes and styles, and can usually be installed without a hearth (subject to manufacturers' guidance) - a huge space saver in smaller rooms. Open fronted wall fires lose heat up the chimney and for this reason they are usually bought as decorative features rather than as a main heat source. Glass fronted wall fires generally give out more heat because the combustion products circulate the fire bed for longer.

Outset Gas Fires

Outset gas fires offer impressive heat outputs, and are suitable for most chimney or flue types. Installation can be performed within a fireplace, standing on a hearth, or wall hung without a surround. Outset fires tend to be traditionally styled and some have wood casings that match your furniture. Common options include high level switches (popular with elderly people) and radiant and convector models.

Glass Fronted Gas Fires

Glass fronted glass fires offer higher efficiency, meaning they are eco-friendly and reduce home fuel bills. They are available in many styles including inset and hole-in-the-wall, often with a choice of fuel bed. The glass panels are easy to remove for annual maintenance. Families with small children often opt for this type of fire, but please note the glass front will get very hot when in use. Care should be taken to prevent children getting too close, for example use of a suitable fire guard.

What type of gas fire can I have if I don't have a chimney?

Most new build homes in UK don't have a conventional chimney, but there are new gas fire models available that can . While this used to limit householders to electric fires, there are now many gas fires available which don't require a chimney.

Balanced Flue Gas Fires

Balanced flue gas fires are glass fronted and available as both inset and outset models. Balanced flue gas fires vent directly through an external wall by means of a horizontal co-axial pipe (one pipe within another). Air is drawn in through the outer pipe, and combustion gases are expelled through the inner pipe. Balanced flue fires do not require an electricity supply.

Powerflue & Fan Flue Gas Fires

Powerflue gas fires are available as both inset and outset models and do not require a glass front. Flue gases are vented through an external wall, drawn out by an electronically driven fan unit. The fan unit is controlled by a sophisticated microprocessor which monitors performance and shuts off the fire in the unlikely event of an operation failure. Powerflue fires require an electricity supply.

Flueless Gas Fires

Flueless gas fires work without any kind of chimney or flue, and don't need to be installed on an external wall. As the fire burns, combustion gases pass through a catalytic converter within the appliance. This converts poisonous carbon monoxide into harmless carbon dioxide and water vapour, which can safely be released back into the room. Flueless gas fires do require a minimum room size and fixed ventilation, please consult your qualified gas fitter before purchase.

Controls

Most gas fires are fitted with manual controls as standard. They often have the option to upgrade to either a slide control, where operation of the gas fire is controlled by a lever at the top of the appliance, which is ideal for older users. Hand held remote controls, which are optional on many gas fires, mean that the fire can be controlled from the comfort of your armchair.

Source: http://www.fireplacesareus.co.uk/

6 common central heating problems with solutions

Common Central Heating Problems & Solutions

1. Human Error – sometimes it might appear that your central heating isn't working simply because of a mistake you or a repairman or someone else in the home might have made with the switches and settings. First of all, check the pilot light is switched on. Next, check that thethermostat is turned up to the required temperature. If both of those are fine, see if the pressure is high enough on your boiler – it might need turning up to ensure water is being heated properly. Finally, make sure the timer settings haven’t been altered, as these can be changed easily simply by following the provided instruction manual. It may sound silly, but checking these before looking into fixing a boiler could save you a lot of time and money in potential repairs or call-out services.
2. Trapped Air in Radiators – if the hot water is working fine but heat simply isn’t being emitted from various radiators in the home (or if they have cold spots in some parts and not others), then you might simply have a case of trapped air, one of the most common forms of central heating radiator problems. This can easily be dealt with, simply by bleeding your radiators. All this involves is the loosening of the valve on the side of the fitting, and letting out any excess air until you catch the overflow of hot water with a damp cloth – a sign that the trapped air has been successfully removed!
3. Sediment Build-Up – if bleeding your radiators proves unsuccessful, then you might have a significant accumulation of sediment and sludge in the fittings that’s preventing hot water from circulating properly. Unfortunately the only real solution for this central heating problem is to hire a plumber to carry out a professional power-flush of your system.
4. Faulty Timer/ Control Panel – sometimes you might find that your radiators are working erratically, and that every now and then your boiler does fire-up successfully – just not always when you need it. If this is the case, then you may have central heating timer problems. This can usually be solved by simply pushing the reset button, but if this doesn't work you should call the helpline of the boiler manufacturer to go through any instructions you might have missed.
5. Leaky Pipe(s) – if you hear pipes banging, clanging or even ticking throughout the night, then it might be that you have a central heating leak in one of the major parts of your system. If you don’t mind peeling up a few floorboards you could check to see if it’s just a case of the pipe-work being installed too close to another surface (hence the cause of the banging), but if you need an immediate repair or proper structural redesign then you me be better off waiting until a professional plumber comes and takes a look for you.
6. Old Boiler – if, after testing for all the above, you still have problems with central heating, then it might simply be that you have an old, tired, outdated boiler that needs replacing. After all, they don’t last forever, and only installing a new boiler provides the streamlined energy-efficiency that is guaranteed to keep you and your family warmer for longer.

Source:http://www.servicemagic.co.uk/

Problem with central heating ?

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Gas safety - 10 tips that could save your life

Here are ten gas safety tips to keep yourself and your family safe against carbon monoxide.

Using a Gas Safe Registered (previously CORGI Gas) Engineer

Letting someone who isn't qualified install or service a gas appliance can put you at serious risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.  Carbon monoxide is incredibly dangerous; it can kill you quickly and with almost no warning, but you can't see, taste or smell it.

The Gas Safe Register - previously known as CORGI - is the UK's official gas safety body. As such any boiler engineer you use should be on the Gas Safe Register.

You should only allow boiler engineers to work on your heating systems if they have an official Gas Safe Register membership card. If your engineer still has a CORGI card after this date, they are not registered, and as a result will not be able to carry out gas work legally.

When checking your engineer's card from now on, look for the yellow Gas Safe Register triangle and not the orange CORGI registration badge.

Look for the Gas Safe Register logo on the registration card of your boiler engineer

Gas Safety - Top 10 Tips

1. Have your gas appliances checked yearly.

If you are on a means tested benefit, pension age or chronically sick or disabled you may be entitled to go on your energy companies Priority Services Register which will entitle you to a free annual gas safety check. Find out whether you could benefit by getting in touch with your energy company.

2. Always check that an engineer is Gas Safe registered.

It is against the law for anyone to do work on gas appliances in the United Kingdom, Isle of Man or Guernsey unless they are on the Gas Safe Register.  Always check that an engineer is Gas Safe registered before you let them work in your home on the Gas Safe Register website or by calling 0800 408 5500.

Registered gas engineers will have a Gas Safe ID card

The Gas Safe ID card looks like this:

There are different kinds of registration - for example, someone may be registered to work on your boiler or pipework, but they might not be qualified to install a gas fire. You can check what kind of work they are qualified to do on the back of their card.

3. It's illegal for someone who works for a Gas Safe-registered business to do private work.

Hiring someone who normally works for a reputable firm, but is doing some extra work 'on the side' isn't the good idea it might seem - it's actually illegal.

4. Report anyone who you suspect of working on gas illegally.

If you think someone is working on gas illegally, report them to the Gas Safe Register and they will investigate their work.

5. Nominate your gas work for an inspection.

If you've had gas work done in the last six months, you can nominate it for a free gas safety inspection from Gas Safe to make sure it's up to scratch.

6. If you move house, get your appliances tested.

If you move into a new home, don't assume the appliances are safe - get everything checked by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

7. Know the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Know the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning - it could save your life:

• • headaches
  • dizziness
  • nausea 
  • breathlessness
  • collapse or loss of consciousness  
  • symptoms which disappear or get better when you leave home and come back when you return
  • other people (and animals) experiencing the same symptoms at the same time

8. Know what to do if you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning.

Know what to do if you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning:

• • get fresh air immediately - open the doors and windows
  • turn off any gas appliances and turn the gas off at the meter
  • extinguish naked flames
  • leave the house
  • see your doctor immediately or go to hospital - let them know that you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning
  • call the Gas Emergency Helpline on 0800 111 999 if you think there's any danger

9. Check for warning signs that your appliances may not be working properly.

Check for warning signs that your appliances may not be working properly:

• • the flame on your gas cooker should be crisp and blue. Lazy yellow or orange flames mean you need to get your cooker checked
  • you may see soot or black marks or staining around or on gas appliances
  • your pilot lights may go out frequently
  • you may see increased condensation inside your windows

10. Get an audible carbon monoxide alarm.

Get an audible carbon monoxide alarm. You can't taste, smell or see carbon monoxide, so an alarm is a good way to protect yourself.  Carbon monoxide alarms look like a smoke alarm and are easy to install and should cost under £20.  Make sure the alarm you buy has a British or European approval mark on it, such as a Kitemark.

What is the Gas Safe Register?

The Gas Safe Register was launched in 2009 and took over from the previous gas safety scheme which was called CORGI Gas Registration. CORGI Gas had been in place for more than 17 years and was able to significantly reduce domestic gas safety issues during this time.

Despite this success, a gas safety review in 2006, carried out by industry stakeholders, gas engineers and consumer groups, decided even more progress could be made by reforming CORGI Gas Registration.

Building on what had already been achieved, in 2008 the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) selected the Capita Group Plc to provide a new registration initiative for gas engineers.

The Gas Safe Register was created and committed to improving gas safety and value for both the public and engineers.

Source: USwitch

What is the difference between a combi boiler and a conventional boiler?

As well as taking care of your heating needs, combi boilers provide instant hot water. They have the advantage of freeing up space in a home, because there's no need for a hot water cylinder (tank) like there is with a conventional boiler. 

In most cases, heating water instantly is more energy-efficient than 'stored' hot water systems. However, the flow of hot water is slower than if it was coming from a cylinder, so a bath will take longer to run. Some combi boilers can in any case also heat water in a cylinder.

Modern boilers generally no longer have tanks in the loft to 'pressurise' the system through gravity. Instead they are sealed systems, and typically only require manual topping up from the mains water supply when the internal pressure has dropped (usually because of tiny leaks). This is a simple operation that takes a few seconds, and involves opening a valve on a pipe below the boiler.

When chosing which boiler is best for your home, you first need to choose which type. There are three main types of boiler: combi, system and conventional.

Combi boilers

Combination boilers - more commonly known as combi boilers - are the most popular kind in the UK and provide heat and hot water with no need for water tanks or cylinders. You can pick either a gas or electric combi boiler.

Pros

• you get unlimited heat and hot water when you need it.
• there's no need for a tank in your loft.
• they don't take up much space.

Cons

The water pressure might be reduced if you need hot water from more than one tap at a time.

Combi boiler installation is quite tricky.

Suitable for

Almost any home, but best for homes where lots of people won't need lots of hot water at the same time.

System boilers

System boilers - also known as sealed system - come with a water cylinder (which usually sits in an airing cupboard) and no water tank.

Pros

• there's no need for a tank in your loft.
• you can get hot water from multiple taps at the same time.

Cons

• you don't get hot water instantly.
• the hot water can run out and you'll have to wait for it to reheat.
• you need to find room for the cylinder somewhere.

Suitable for

Homes which need to have hot water in more than one place at the same time.

Conventional boilers

Conventional boilers - also known as open vent or regular boilers - have both a cylinder and a tank.

Pros

You can get hot water from multiple taps at the same time.

Cons

• the hot water can run out and you'll have to wait for it to reheat.
• you need to find room for the cylinder and the tank.

Suitable for

Homes which need to have hot water in more than one place at the same time.

Condensing boilers

Condensing boilers aren't strictly a boiler type - instead it's an attribute your boiler can have, e.g. you can have a condensing combi boiler or a condensing conventional boiler.

Condensing boilers are very energy efficient because they capture some of the heat which would escape from the flue of a non-condensing boiler and re-use it.  This means they get more heat from the same amount of fuel, which will save you money on your heating bills.

All new gas boilers have had to be condensing since 2005 (although in exceptional circumstances non-condensing boilers are allowed).

Energy-efficient boilers

All new boilers are energy-efficient - since 2010 all new boilers must be A-rated for energy efficiency, or at least 88% efficient.

The energy efficiency rating system for boilers is called SEDBUK (Seasonal Efficiency of Domestic Boilers in the UK).  All boilers are assessed and given a rating to help you pick a boiler that is energy-efficient, or see how efficient your existing boiler is.

Source: Uswitch